![]() ![]() ![]() If you didn’t trim the end of the strip yet, trim it right before you get to the corner, allow that little bit of the square to show. Gently feed the quilt under the foot, let the machine do the work. Go slow, it’s easier to take your time and get it right than to go back and rip it out. Start at one top corner and stitch down the side. Even though my B 780 is equipped with the Dual Feed Feature, I still like using the Walking foot #50 for better control of all the layers when sewing the facing. I leave the default settings on the machine for a straight stitch, and sew gently, lining up the 1/4″ marking on the sole of the foot to the raw edge of the strip. And now we sew, using the Walking foot #50 to help evenly stitch through all the layers at once. Note: if you prefer, don’t trim the second end of each strip at this point, leave extra and trim it when you get to the corner while sewing.Ħ. Don’t pull on the strip, just lay it down gently. I like to gently pin the strips and triangles to the quilt. This will help cut down on the bulk of fabric layers in the corner, and the triangle will cover the raw ends of the facing strips. Don’t go all the way to the very corner, but leave a little space. The triangles are placed on the top of the quilt at each corner, with the raw edges matching the raw edges of the quilt (or your mark made on the edges of the quilt).ĥ. These triangles will cover the raw edges of the facings at each corner of the quilt.Ĥ. While you are ironing, take each square and fold it on the diagonal, wrong sides together, and press. If you need to sew two lengths of strips together for a larger quilt, sew strips together on an angle.ģ. We’ll sew the strip to the quilt using a 1/4″ seam allowance leaving a 1″ facing on the back side of the quilt. I use 2 1/2″ wide strips, pressed wrong sides together along the length to yield a double-layered strip 1 1/2″ wide. You need one facing strip for each edge of your quilt. If you have already trimmed your quilt to size, be aware that this method will decrease the overall dimension of your quilt by a bit more than a 1/2″ in each direction.Ģ. I leave wider borders than I need on my art quilts, I think it’s easier to quilt now, trim later. If you have not already trimmed your quilt to size, mark a line 1/4″ outside each edge of your quilt. Steam iron and water (I use my BERNINA water bottle to keep water to fill the iron, it’s great for pouring right into the iron)ġ.Walking foot #50 or Edgestitch foot #10/ #10C/ #10D.Sewing machine (I sew on a BERNINA 780).4″ or 5″ square for each corner (The edges of the corners may show a bit, so keep that in mind when choosing fabric).2 1/2″ strips for facing, length to match the perimeter of the quilt (You shouldn’t be able to see the facing when done, so it doesn’t have to match perfectly).Quilt ready for edge finishing (if it’s not trimmed, wait until later to trim it.You might want to try a sample or a mug rug before tackling a larger quilt. You can eyeball the measurements of the strips you’ll use. The beauty of this method is that once you’ve marked the outside edge of the facing, you can just sew. Also, I find this method of making corners easier than traditional binding. I also prefer a facing because the hand stitching required at the end is easier as there is more fabric turned to the back, and it doesn’t have to be exact. Art Quilter, Robbi Joy Eklow, shares her method for facing a quilt, a finish that gives the edges of a quilt a clean look without the frame of traditional quilt binding.Ī facing is similar to a binding on a quilt, except that it’s turned completely to the back so there is no visual line around the edge of a quilt. ![]()
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